Tuesday, December 16, 2008

" The Grand Tour "


COLORADO AND WYOMING




Well, after what was a very pleasant two weeks or so at South Dakota, time was edging on and what with Pete’s Dad and Caroline arriving at Denver Airport, in just over 8 Days, it was time to move on. They were staying with us for 3 weeks and what lied ahead of us was a 2300 mile journey, starting from Denver and taking in Utah, Arizona, California, Nevada and returning to Denver. All had to be completed in less than 21 days!!
We said our goodbyes on 8th September and headed Southeast and out of Custer. Todays journey take us out of South Dakota, through Wyoming, and into Colorado from the North, some 300 miles. Our destination was Boyd Lake State Park, Loveland. Located 70 miles North of Denver, it would serve as a brief 2 day stopover, before we headed closer to Denver and the International Airport, located just East of Denver itself. By now these State Parks were becoming favorites of ours, each pitch having ample room, a picnic table, personal BBQ’s and a fire-ring for log fires outside in the cool evenings, they really are very well equipped. We will miss these facilities for RV’ers when we return.
After setting up at Boyd Lake, we needed supplies, as there was no Wal-Mart near Custer, so off we went to ‘Wally-World’ (Named after the great National Lampoons Vacation Movies!!) , just 8 miles away. We stocked up at Walmart, and on our way home called in (as you do) at a rather large RV dealer that we had seen on our way down. We spotted a great RV which was suitable for us to bring back to the UK when we return next March. We had been told, before we left the UK, that 40ft was the max length that we could legally register in the UK, however, this was not the case, and the superb Monaco Dynasty, our current RV proved to be 5 inches too long. After Pete had used his ‘bartering’ skills, we had negotiated a deal, with a view to collecting our new home after our trip with Pete’s Dad, some 3 weeks later.
It was now the 11th September and time to move yet again, leaving behind the most fantastic Chinese Restaurant called ‘The Great Wall’ All you can eat buffet (over 100 different dishes) with a Mongolian BBQ, for $6.29, which included a free drink!! There was even a chef, waiting to cook the fresh meat, fish, vegetables and seasoning that you choose! Our ‘base camp’ was to be Chatfield State Park, which was located at the foothills of the ‘Rockies’ the scenery was just breathtaking and would be an excellent start to ‘The Tour’ Upon arrival at the entrance gate, the most foulest of smells filled the RV, the guards little cabin and the surrounding area!! At first we thought ALL of our tyres were on fire, it really was that intense, Pete proceeded to check everything, he had the lockers open, (sometimes critters get into your lockers and chew through the wiring!) checked all the tyres, and also went through every inch of the interior of the RV! To no avail!! Even Amber got blamed at this stage, as it couldn’t be anything else! Poor dog!
In the meantime Sue was talking to the now ‘green looking’ park ranger, through his window and was asking him what he thought the awful, awful smell was? “Smells kinda like Skunk to me” was his reply.
After proceeding to our pre-booked pitch, we had to find out where the stench was coming from, and guess what??? Yep, its true what the cartoons joke about, and Boy, did it take us a while to find where it was coming from. It seemed to be coming from the passenger front tyre and wheel arch, it was everywhere. It was even making Pete wretch whilst he was under the RV trying to see what it was. Sue proceeded to wash the entire area with all different sorts of disinfectant , but the smell remained, even inside the rv!
It rained that night and all the next day, and this seemed to dilute the smell, slightly and it wasn’t till later that morning on our way to the Airport to do a ‘dummy run’ that Sue spotted the ‘culprit’ and there it was, a dead, flat Skunk! We must have run over the carcass just prior to entering Chatfield, and all its scent had sprayed under the wheel arch and all over the mud flap!
As the saying goes ‘you can laugh about it now’ but take it from us, we have seen lots of ‘road kill’ Skunks, and have swerved to avoid every one of them!!
Well, the day has arrived and it had been a sunny day so arriving at Denver International Airport at 6-30 we were hoping they would see the beautiful sunset as they were landing , it was great to see them coming through the exit but they looked exhausted after there 15hour journey .
After arriving back at the RV site and having a good meal which Pete had prepared an early night was in order ,so after a good nights rest they were up and ready for the first day of “ The Tour”
We thought to be fair it would be better to let them relax and enjoy the first day of sunshine before taking them on a long drive so we stay at Chatfield for an extra day . We did take them to Wal-Mart and an amazing Beer and wine shop called Tipsie which must have had every named beer and wine known also a cooler room just for all types of expensive Champagne it really was worth a look.
Thursday morning it was’ up and at em ’as we had a lot of miles to cover , lots to see and do and Pete had planned the route very carefully so we could see and do as much as possible in a short space of time so leaving Denver for the first leg of our tour which would take us to Utah , a distance of 360 miles.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

South Dakota.

MINNESOTA.


The 'Ole Miss'
The Famous 'Old Man'

The morning of 18th August 2008, saw us heading directly East, out of Wisconsin, over the 'Ole Miss' (Mississippi River!) and into the State of Minnesota, our destination, South Dakota, and a small Black Hills town called Custer. The journey ahead of us would be around 800 miles or so, and we decided on two stopovers 'en-route' and used the ever reliable State Park System for our nightly rests. The first brief stop would be Myre Big Island State Park, midway through Minnesota, which proved to be excellent value for money and a pleasant 1 night stay. (Even though our electric point was not working!)



Minnesota State Line.


The second day of our journey took us out of Minnesota and into South Dakota Via Sioux Falls on Interstate 90, East, we then left the Interstate system and continued on local highways, heading for Snake Creek State Park! This State park, though on route, was in a very remote location and was literally deserted! we were the only RV on site, and had the choice of any pitch we wanted. Perched above, and on, the East side of the Missouri River, it provided us with excellent views of the bridge and river, and also a chance for Amber to take a well deserved 'dip'. This particular part of Snake Creek which we were on was almost brand new, and all the facilities worked fine. It was a very nice site, probably one of the best State Park campgrounds we have been on. (to date)

Heading West towards Sioux Falls and South Dakota.


On site Snake Creek State Park.

Snake Creek State Park.



Bridge over the Missouri River, Snake Creek State Park.


The Missouri River.

Amber liked this State Park.



And of course, the Missouri River.




SOUTH DAKOTA



After yet another 1 night stay, it was 'up and at em'!! and press on 'Westwards' for the final part of the journey. This final leg took us through quite a few Indian reservations, long desolate prairies, and some of the most remote roads we have ever seen, sometimes not seeing another vehicle or person for 2 hours or more! This did make us feel a little uneasy, especially since we had not had a mobile phone signal for 2 days or so now, modern technology eh?


Remote prairie road.


We eventually seen this truck after around 2 hours on the road!!

Sunflower field.

Entering Cowboy Country........

And Indian Country too!!


Entering Custer National Park.



Custer National Park.


This Buffalo was alongside the road, Custer National Park.

Our Host for the next 2 weeks or so, was to be Custers Gulch Campground, located on the exact same site where General Custer and his men had stayed during their expedition. Ray and Elaine, the site owners, greeted us with a smile and checked us in, and onto our site, and made sure we were ok. Custers Gulch is located in a small valley, surrounded with rocky hills and outcrops, lined with evergreen pine and fir trees, it really was an amazing setting, with spectacular scenery!

Custer's Gulch RV Park.


General Custer did actually camp right here!!



Spectacular Views! Custer's Gulch RV Park.



The location was just breathtaking, Custer's Gulch RV Park.


Whichever direction you looked in!!!




On site, Custer's Gulch RV Park.


On site, Custers Gulch RV Park.



John, Connie and 'Missie' good friends we made at Custer's Gulch.......



and their fifth wheel RV and pick up. Nice!!

A DAY IN CUSTER AND THE MUSEUM!


The Black Hills Gold shop, Custer.
One of the many Trading Posts.......

Another Trading Post, Custer.


Sheriff's Office, Custer.


After a day or so, setting up and settling in we decided to head into Custer, just 2 miles away, and visit the '1880 Courthouse and Museum' and also see what the town had to offer. As the title suggests, the museum was the former Custer Town Courthouse and was now a museum.



The 1880's Courthouse, now a Museum.



The Badlands!


The building was the hub of Custer County from 1881 to 1974, since then it has been preserving and displaying Custer County History. It served the local people for 92 years.

The history of the Deadwood Stage!


The first room we entered was the 'Antique Taxidermy' room, mostly done by a local man between 1900 and 1929, and is in sharp contrast to the modern mount of a mountain lion.

Mountain Lion.



We then entered the Custer Expedition room, which features photographs taken by Illingworth, on the 1874 expedition into the Black Hills, led by famed Civil War General George A Custer. exhibits on display included a rifle used by General Custer, and the remains of a tree, bearing carvings by members of his expedition. On 25th June 1876, Sitting Bull and his 4000 warriors were encamped when Custer and his troops mounted their infamous attack at Little Bighorn river. Custer and his 200 soldiers were all killed by the Indian warriors and congress reacted quickly by punishing even the peaceful Sioux Indians, by cutting food and clothing rations dramatically, and taking their tribal land in the Black Hills from them.

General Custer and the Sioux Indians.


This was supposedly, the first Grizzly caught by Custers Men.



Minerals of Custer County are displayed throughout the museum, including Gold Ore, which brought miners to Custer in 1875. And also Rose Quartz, which is the official State gemstone! Mining, Lumbering and Ranching were major sources of income in the early years.

The upstairs courtroom features the original Cherrywood furniture with the judges chamber just beyond. A one-room school with teacher and students shows how the '3 R's' were taught in the 1880's.

Judges Chambers.


The 'Ranch Room' features early day branding irons, tools, barbed wire collection and antique saddles and Tack.

The Ranch room.



Sue, in the Ranch Room.

Downstairs, in the basement, is the 'General Store' where anything from tea kettles to neck-ties were sold. This incorporated 'The Old Fairburn Post Office' including the original antique mailboxes. In the same room as the Post office, was also the location of the Local Jail, and it is said that customers visiting the General Store, were asked by the prisoners for neccessities!

The first Post Office.



The Local Prison.


Sue, in the Post Office.






Outside were various outbuildings, including The Carriage House. Also, a hand-hewn log building housing printing equipment from Custer's 1879 first continuously operated newspaper.





The Carriage House.

A brick building housing early Blacksmiths Forge and tools, And is the site of Custer County's ONLY LEGAL hanging!!

The only Legal Hanging spot.

We spent a good few hours inside the museum, learning all about our surrounding area, and the importance of General Custers Expedition and his encounters with the Sioux Indians. Good value at $5 each entrance fee!



MOUNT RUSHMORE AND CRAZY HORSE!


The road leading to Mount Rushmore is called Iron Mountain Road, It is extremely narrow and contains 180 degree hairpins and dangerous 'blind' tunnels, some of which 'frame' the faces of Mount Rushmore and provide excellent photo opportunities, even if they proved a little tricky to stop the car to try and get the best shot!


One of the many tunnels on the Iron Mountain Road.



This was took from the Iron Mountain Road.



A shot of the Four Faces.


Tee-pee's on the Iron Mountain Road.



In 1923 Doane Robinson had a vision!! A massive mountain memorial carved from stone, so large that it would put South Dakota on the map. He told all who would listen of his dream, of giant statues of Western figures such as, Chief Redcloud, Buffalo Bill Cody and legendary Sioux warriors marching along South Dakota's skyline! Robinson enlisted the aid of 1 man he knew could 'carry the torch', the well respected Senator, Peter Norbeck. Norbeck was a frequent visitor at The White House and Robinson's proposal was put forward by Norbeck and was agreed by senior Senators who encouraged the historian to seek a sculptor capable of such a project. One of America's most prolific artists, Gutzon Borglum, received a letter from Robinson proposing the project in August 1924.



Borglum, the Sculptor.

Borglum accepted Robinson's proposal, but forcibly informed Robinson and Norbeck that his lifes work would not be spent immortalising regional heroes!! The trio eventually agreed and selected four great Presidents for the carving. Borglums party climbed 7242 ft of the South facing, pine clad, craggy cliff, known as Mount Rushmore, and with each test, Borglum confirmed that he had found his mountain, and Mount Rushmore was chosen for the massive sculpture on 19th August 1925.

Borglum climbed to the craggy summit in 1927, drilled 6 holes to mark commencement of carving. The Mount Rushmore dream would embrace the remaining 14 years of his life and leave a monument unlike any other. Thus Mount Rushmore was born!!


After Borglums death, his son, Lincoln, (actually named after the President!) spent 7 months refining the monument and on 31st October 1941 he stopped construction, leaving Mount Rushmore as we know it today, a truly American Icon!


We arrived at Mount Rushmore, paid our entrance fee of $10, which covers a car full of people so could work out very inexpensive. and proceeded to park the car. After climbing the 2 flights of stairs and passing the visitor centre, we were faced with the 'Avenue of Flags'. Every American State's flag is on display here, and also the date that they were aquired, and entered into State. We were surprised to see the British flag in the corner of the State of Hawaii flag, we were told that we had formed a strong 'friendship' with Hawaii many years ago.

Avenue of Flags!





Hawaii Flag.


Our first Glimpse!

The Faces.


At the end of the 'Avenue' we could then see the four faces in all their glory, it was truly an awe inspiring sight, we were both speechless for just a few moments. It was hard to believe that 1 man could achieve a sculpture, in the side of a granite mountain, of such proportion!! and believe me, these photo's really do not do it any justice at all!!!


Sue and the Faces.

I regretted wearing jeans, it reached around 95 deg!!


Left to right: George Washington, remembered for helping the nation achieve its independence from England. Thomas Jefferson, drafted the declaration of independence at the age of 33, Theodore Roosevelt, remembered for completing the Panama Canal and connecting the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and finally, on the far right is Abraham Lincoln, remembered for overseeing one of the most pivotal periods of American history, The Civil War!

The Faces


We spent an hour or so, taking pictures and enjoying the sight and the sunshine, in what was now turning out to be a very hot and sunny day and we were glad to get into the air conditioned gift shop where we met a nice couple from Devon!. After getting a few souvenirs, we went back to the car to get our packed lunch that we had prepared earlier that morning.

The road back from Mount Rushmore continues on the Iron Mountain Road and takes you past the side profile of President Washington, and then winds you back to highway 16, and it was then South, back towards Custer.

Side profile.


Fantastic views from The Iron Mountain Road.



Located just north of Custer, on highway 16, is the Crazy Horse Memorial. The Mount Rushmore Memorial encouraged another accomplished artist to carve a second colossal sculpture in the Black Hills. In 1948, 7 years after work stopped on Mount Rushmore, carving began on Crazy Horse Memorial by sculptor Korczaz Ziolkowski, whom had previously worked as an assistant to Borglum on Mount Rushmore in 1939 before leaving. Chief Standing Bear of the Ogalala Sioux Indians wrote to Ziolkowski, asking him to consider carving a sculpture dedicated to the native American indian. Chief Standing Bear said "We would like the white man to know the red man has great heroes too" Ziolkowski accepted the challenge to create the largest sculptural undertaking in the world and chose the legendary Sioux Warrior, Crazy Horse for his subject.



Crazy Horse was born in the Black Hills and is partially credited with General Custers sensational defeat at the battle of Little Bighorn. Thunderhead Mountain's granite face is 563 ft tall and will dwarf even the Four Presidents faces when completed.


It was a very fascinating day out filled with spectacular scenery, great American History, and awe inspiring sights.



DEADWOOD AND WILD BILL HICKOCK!



The famous Main Street, Deadwood.


Main Street.

Hotel on the Main Street.


Another fantastic looking Hotel.


Deadwood is located 45 miles, directly North of Custer and was famed for its gambling, brothels and, of course, Wild Bill Hickock and Calamity Jane!

Gold was discovered here in 1874 by Custer's expedition, this set off a 'rush' of fortune seekers looking to strike it rich. The first gold was found near the present day city of Custer, in the Southern hills. But the creeks and mines yielded little treasure. In 1876 miners moved to the Northern Black Hills where they discovered a 'gulch' (valley) full of dead trees and a creek full of gold!



Main Street.



And Deadwood was born!!

Outlaws and Gunslingers, Main Street.


It attracted outlaws, gamblers and gunslingers along with the gold prospectors and Wild Bill was one of those men who came looking for fortune!




Check out these 'Deadwood' door handles!


A few weeks after arriving in Deadwood, Wild Bill was gunned down by Jack Mc Call, holding a poker hand of Ace's and Eight's and so began the legend of the 'deadmans hand'.

The 'Lucky Nugget' where Wild Bill was shot!

The sign says it all!



But they did catch him!


Tribute to Wild Bill, Main Street.


We parked the car just north, and within a short walk, of Deadwood and we were immediatley faced with a very imposing building that is the main Post office, Next door to this is the Adams Museum, this was free to enter, but no photos were allowed. Basically, it describes how Deadwood was a booming 'Transportation Hub' serving as a main trading post and secure stopover for the Wells Fargo wagons as they would transport gold from out of the hills. It also became a main freight and cargo distribution town with wagons lining the streets on their way to, and from, what is now, South Dakota. Two blocks North is Deadwood's Main Street with its present day gambling houses, shops, banks and restaurants.


Post Office Building.


Present day gambling house, Main Street.

The Adams Museum was founded and built by pioneer businessman and civic leader W.E Adams in 1930 at a cost of $75,000. He deeded the building to the city of Deadwood, but placed the operation of the non-profit museum in the hands of a board of trustees who were responsible for collecting some of the Black Hills treasure.

Adams Museum.


Adams House.


Entrance to the Cemetery.

The Mount Moriah cemetery is home to both the graves of Wild Bill and well known prostitute, Calamity Jane. It was her dying wish that she be buried next to Wild Bill, and there were rumours of a relationship together, however, this turned out to be pure speculation, and nothing of the kind existed ever! Wild Bills gravestone is very large indeed and consists of a large life sized bust on a plinth, Visitors to the grave had left certain offerings, such as cigarettes and small bottles of Liquor. Calamity Jane's Gravestone was completely opposite, it being a very small, simple affair, and not very ornate or grand at all, in comparison.

A sign in the cemetery for Wild Bill.......



And Calamity Jane!


Wild Bill's Grave.......

And laid beside him, Calamity Jane!


We stood on historic Main Street and felt transported to a wilder time..... when whiskey ruled and gamblers took a chance just walking down the street, when Deadwood was known as a lawless town. It was just Fab!!



BEAR COUNTRY USA!



Entrance to Bear Country.



Bear Country USA is a 'drive thru wildlife park' located North of Custer on highway 16, just before Rapid City, but instead of having exotic and unfamiliar animals, this park was home to many species found, not just in the black hills, but also parts of North America. The animals roam free in over 200 acres of natural Black Hills Habitat. The park features the largest privately owned collection of American Black Bear.


Sue, in the Gift shop.


We observed Elk, Wolves, Reindeer, Mountain Lions, Coyote's and Bighorn Sheep to name but a few.

There was also an additional section called 'Babyland' which featured young and small animals, which also included a large playground for the bear cubs, complete with waterfalls and trees. It was an educational few hours for us and was a change from the 'steeped history' that the surrounding area had offered, it truly was, a breath of fresh air for us, and provided us with a nice relaxing end to our stay in South Dakota.



Grizzly Bear.


Fox and Coyote.



Beaver.


Bobcat.


Mountain Lion


Wolf.




Wolf.


Racoon.


Bear Cubs.


Bear Cubs.



Coyote Cubs.




Grizzly Bear

Mountain Lion


Sue, with a sleeping Grizzly!



This bear was fast asleep.



A pack of Coyote's.


Bighorn sheep, in the distance.


This wolf came right up to the car, amazing!



Arctic Wolf


Reindeer.



Reindeer.

We're not sure what these were! Answers on a postcard please!



Next stop is Colorado to collect Petes Dad and Wife, Caroline. And to then start the 'Grand Tour' which would see us take in Utah, Arizona, California and Nevada, all in just 3 weeks!!
Details to follow...........